Over the past 6+ years the MySoil team has used DIY Premium Double Dark Green for new lawns, overseeding, and every seeding project in between. We have referred friends & family to this blend with unparalleled results, a rich, thick, weed-free, dark green lawn that is the talk of the neighborhood (or even the town). The constant questions we get asked are “Where did you get that grass seed?” or “How do you get your yard to look like that?”. Out of these continued questions, we were driven to make this blend available to homeowners. We are excited to share this product with the DIY community and feel PDDG is perfect for anyone looking for a premium cool-season seed.
This premium 5-way blend of Kentucky Bluegrass and Perennial Ryegrass varieties offers extreme striping ability with dark green color! Other key attributes include: Drought tolerance, shade tolerance, excellent disease resistance & traffic tolerance.
Caddieshack II Perennial Ryegrass: exhibits excellent performance during the winter, which makes it a good choice for permanent turf in northern climates. It tied for #1 for least winter damage in Minnesota (NTEP 06-1 report). Great resistance against a broad spectrum of pests and diseases, like brown patch, Bipolaris leaf spot, pythium blight and red thread. Dark genetic color, Medium-fine leaf texture & excellent spring and summer turf density.
Parkside Perennial Ryegrass: the optimal combination of consistent year-round performance with excellent traffic tolerance. A great addition to any seed blend, Parkside has unique disease resistance to tackle Gray Leaf Spot, Dollar Spot, and Stem Rust. Parkside brings dark green genetic color, fine leaf texture, and a uniform growth habit and is great for low mowing heights. Parkside was named "2020 Turfgrass of the Year" by The Spruce.
Prominent Perennial Ryegrass: Provides dark green genetic color, quick germination, great disease distance including dollar spot. medium-fine leaf texture.
Jackpot Kentucky Bluegrass: Quick to germinate and establishment, Excellent seeding vigor, Great spring green up, Good against rust and powdery mildew. Jackpot also exhibits excellent wear ability under traffic stress.
Beyond Kentucky Bluegrass: Delivers turf performance above-and-beyond many popular varieties with excellent disease resistance, density, dark green color, and the ability to crowd out Poa annua and other weeds. Beyond also has outstanding resistance to summer patch, dollar spot, and leaf spot. Good shade tolerance, Great for low mowing heights.
How Much Do I Need?
- New Lawn: 4500-5600 sqft
- Overseeding: 5600-7500sq ft
- New Lawn: 2500-3100sqft
- Overseeding: 3100-4000sq ft
A smooth seedbed free of weeds and other debris will increase the quality of your results!
STEP 1: Remove Any Existing Turf & Weeds
To remove your current lawn & any weeds there are both mechanical & chemical methods that can be used, but usually, a combination of both is best.
CHEMICAL: A non-selective herbicide product can be sprayed to kill all existing grass and weeds. Always follow chemical labels & rates.
MECHANICAL: A sod-cutter can be used to remove existing turf & top portion of the root system. Sod strips can be disposed of. If there is very little turf and weeds a rototiller can be used to disturb the top 3-4” of soil (such as a new construction site).
COMBINATION: Most often a non-selective chemical the spray is used to kill existing plant matter followed by removal with a sod cutter or by rototilling in the dead plant material. If the material remaining after chemical kill is dense and multiple inches thick it may be best to remove with a sod cutter, followed by a shallow rototilling of 3-4” deep.
Leveling The Soil Surface
STEP 2: Leveling the Surface
It is important to level the soil to provide a smooth uniform surface for even germination & ease of future maintenance activities.
- Level the surface by filling in low spots using a drag, light harrow or large landscape rake.
- If the soil is very “fluffy” or loose, water the soil a bit to help compact the surface. A roller may also help. (When walking on the soil your shoes should not leave more than a 1” deep depression if possible)
- If underground irrigation is present or planned, level all heads even with the prepared soil surface.
STEP 3: Amend The Soil
Proper fertility and pH will ensure your new lawn grows-in quickly & evenly with great color & density!
- Purchase a MySoil Test Kit to provide exact fertilizer & soil pH recommendations prior to seeding.
- After properly applying amendments to your soil, lightly incorporate by dragging a metal spring leaf-rake over the surface with some pressure, followed by an irrigation cycle.
- Do not apply Weed n Feed type products containing herbicides prior to planting.
Testing Soil Nutrient Availability
STEP 4: Seeding
This is the moment you have been waiting for, but the preparation to this point was critical to a successful end-product!
- Using a rotary or drop spreader, apply the seed in two directions. Each direction should deliver half the total rate.
- A total rate of 8-10 lbs/1000 sq. ft. (4-5 lbs per direction) is recommended.
- Once the seed is spread, lightly rake across the surface to incorporate the seed.
- Irrigate once seeded and avoid puddling, which can move the seed.
Incorporate Seeds Into Soil
Seeds remain moist for germination
Add new life to your lawn by blending-in some of the finest cool-season grass seed varieties on the market today!
STEP 1: Amend The Soil
- You will want to let your nitrogen levels drop slightly prior to overseeding your lawn. This allows the new seed to germinate and grow without being “out-competed” for sunlight, water & nutrients by the existing turf stand.
- Use a MySoil Test Kit to guide fertility & pH adjustments prior to overseeding. (More nitrogen will be applied about 7-10 days after seeding to promote new seedling growth)
STEP 2: Reduce Existing Turf & Expose Some Soil
- Scalp your lawn down by mowing at 2” or less if possible and remove clippings. This will expose more soil for the seed to contact. More dense lawns may require thatching in multiple directions with debris removal to expose the soil surface. Aggressive thatching can also leave small slices in the soil for the seed to fall into.
- For best results, once turf is thinned, an aerifier can be used to make holes no more ½” deep, so that some seed can fall-in.
STEP 3: Seeding
- This is the moment you have been waiting for, but the preparation to this point was critical to a successful end-product!
- Using a rotary or drop spreader, apply the seed in two directions. Each direction should deliver half the total rate. A total rate of 5-8 lbs/1000 sq. ft. (2.5-4 lbs per direction) is recommended. (Spreaders are often ¾ to all the way open to deliver these rates)Irrigate after seeding to help the seed establish contact with the soil.
- Irrigate 2-3 times per day for 5-15 minutes each time. (Keep the seed and soil moist at all times for the best germination. Do not allow water to puddle for newly seeded lawns.)
- The Ryegrass will germinate first, followed by the Bluegrass in another week or so.
- Your first mow can occur with a light push mower when the grass reaches about 3.5-4” tall.
- Look to fertilize again after your first mowing following your MySoil Test recommendations. Do not apply Weed n Feed type products containing herbicides 3-4 weeks prior to and after seeding.
- If possible, wait 10-14 days to begin regular mowing practices.
First Mowing After Seeding New Lawn
Fertilizing Following MySoil Test Results
Premium Double Dark Green